Monthly Archives: December 2010

Modelling: Sword Brethren Terminator Assault Squad

Not to worry, the Land Raider has not been forgotten, but making sure the passengers will be ready at the same time seemed like a good idea.

So far, so good! And I guess you can spot what I've got in the background?

Since last time

While painting the Land Raider Crusader, I felt like starting on the passengers at the same time. That way the blog gets more varied posts, and I get to prove that I’m capable of multitasking! And the objects in the background of the picture? Yep, that’s right! I’ve got Forgeworld Black Templars Terminator Storm Shields!! Really looking forward to both attaching and painting them. But not all of them will belong to the Terminators. As you can see, one of them has a pair of Lightning Claws. I’ll explain more after the images:

Why did I do that?

I wanted at least one Terminator with Lightning Claws, first of all so that not all of them would have Initiative 1. To have one Terminator capable of three attacks that are all Initiative 4, ignores Armour Saves and re-roll To Hit, should be good for dealing with a larger number of foes, or a not-so-tough (but fast), multi-wound character. Also, I really wanted to spend the pair of Claws in the sprue that are longer than the others (normally meant for the Sergeant). The surplus shield will be given to a character, or modified to fit as decoration on a vehicle (the Land Raider?).

I’m quite happy with the posing so far, but my ideas will be more evident when the heads are in place. For the details I have Templar shoulder pads from the Black Templars Chapter Upgrade pack, and also some Etched Brass Black Templars Symbols from Forgeworld.

Basic tips n’ tricks

When posing, try to get some variety in the angle of the torsos. That way you’ll be able to choose arms that “match”, and together create a particular stance. When trying out different arms, don’t be too quick to glue after picking a pair. Try out different “tilts”, especially if the model is to have a weapon/shield in each arm. Think about which way the head is to face, and imagine yourself being the model. Why not try the pose yourself? If you have problems keeping your balance, you might have to re-think the pose (or get a jetpack if the model is flying). 

Next time

The Land Raider? Probably…maybe…possibly…we’ll see!

Comments in both English and Norwegian are appreciated!


Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 4

Finally finished with the first passenger side of the interior, and well on the way with the rest, I can finally sight the end of the first part of painting. Well, barely glimpse it would perhapse be more accurate.

As you can see, the engine has now been included in the process. Bit of a challenge that one, if you intend to be thorough.

The Painting: Land Raider Crusader posts

Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 1
Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 2
Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 3
Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 5
Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 6
Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 7

Since last time

First of all: It’s not my thing to start off making all sorts of creative excuses for the post being late, so let’s just say I’ve been otherwise occupied and be done with it. Buy it if it’s within your good graces to do so. So anyway, there has been some development on the Land Raider interior, as both the introductory text and image suggests. Most of it very pleasing, some less. Before I forget though; be advised that a new model has entered the model gallery, so why not stop by when you’re finished here?

How did I do that?

The first image shows you the right passenger side,  now all cleaned up and given a few coats of Boltgun Metal. The left side is, as I’ve mentioned, completely finished, except for varnishing (yes, I DO bother with this, so don’t even BOTHER asking). The shrine will, after some consideration (hardly any), most likely remain black and empty. The metallics were drybrushed with Chainmail, the seats highlighted with Bestial Brown and all the studs tipped with Mithril Silver. The keypad in the foremost compartment is mostly Skull White, and otherwise Scorpion GreenBlood Red and Goblin Green. The small “backlighting effect” attempted on these last keys were achieved using, respectably, heavily watered down Sunburst Yellow, Blazing Orange and Scorpion Green. You probably didn’t even notice it before I told you, but I consider it practise.

One thing I’m less pleased with is the metal skull seen on the panel in the third picture. Like the rest of the metallics, it was highlighted by drybrushing on Chainmail. And on such a tiny object the drybrushing proved to obscure a lot of detail. So what I SHOULD have done was using the overbrushing technique, as practised upon the Imperial Eagle seen in the last picture. That one I’m really happy with, so the trick will be not to spoil it with the next highlight.

Basic tips n’ tricks

The overbrushing technique is all about using a fairly dry brush and applying very little pressure. Dip the brush in the paint, without watering it down first, and then stroke off most of the paint, preferrably leaving the brush nice and flat. Now you can carefully apply the paint to the model, for example a grille or chainmail armour, without the paint running into any cracks. It is, in principle, about the same as drybrushing, but doesn’t leave a “chalky” result (somtimes this is preferable though). It is more gentle with tiny detail, but not the best if the goal is a subtle and seamless coat (like on the body of my Necrons).

Next time

In the following post I will hopefully have started on the engine itself, and perhaps even finished the so far ignored floor. The ramp parts will most likely also be finished, and the right passenger side given a few more layers. Will there, however, be something in between? Well, we’ll see, won’t we?

Comments in both English and Norwegian are appreciated!


Game Review – Warhammer 40,000: Fire Warrior

My oldest 40K-game is the intense first-person shooter Fire Warrior.   

In-game firefight, the Greater Good shall prevail! Image: THQ

 
Produced by: THQ
Category: FPS
Released: 2003

Image: Amazon.co.uk

 
Just to get one thing straight from the very beginning: Starting up this game for the first time in 2010 will probably have you staring in disbelief at the 7 years long time-travel in graphical technology that it represents. 7 years backwards in time, that is. To put it short, the graphics LOOK old because they ARE old. But who cares?! You are controlling a Tau Fire Warrior that is able to wield pretty much any Tau and Imperial hand-held weaponry in existence, what more could a fan of Warhammer 40K want? Well, an authentic story and environment, lots of action and brutal violence should also be compulsory ingredients in a good 40K-game. Fire Warrior delivers all of this; The story is well-told and true to Games Workshop’s universe, and the areas you visit in the game are varied and, from time to time, quite impressive in both scale and detail. Still, there are games from 2003 that tend to look a lot “newer” both graphics- and physics-wise. Movement tends to look very mechanical, and some of the textures are a bit simple.

 

Much of the environment looks quite impressive, especially the gothic Imperial buildings. Image: THQ

But, as I’ve stated earlier, you shouldn’t let the graphics distract you too much. The game is intense enough that you’ll be spending most of your time consentrating on the enemy. If you have read some of my earlier posts you’ll know that I support the Imperium, so killing Guardsmen and even Space Marines is not my favourite aspect of the game. Which makes it even more fun when Chaos enters the fray, and becomes the new enemy.

This, however, brings me to the main flaw of the game as I see it: You are ONE Fire Warrior killing DOZENS of Astartes, Chaos Marines, Raptors and even Daemons. ALONE. On your FIRST mission EVER! For an outsider this might seem okay, but 40K-fans all know that a Fire Warrior needs some luck to take down even one Space Marine. I guess you can simply turn up the difficulty, but that doesn’t change the goal of the game! I generally like the weapons design, but a few of them are still either underpowered or functions in a weird way. The boltgun, for example, has a very low firing rate. This is fine for when you use it yourself, considering the weight and recoil, but the Astartes should be able to fire it on full auto. Besides, the bolt rounds act like slow-moving missiles, so I suppose THQ either wanted to make a sort of “machine rocket-launcher”, or they made them slow so you would have a chance to dodge. I guess the game would be too difficult otherwise, realisticly difficult. 

Taste plasma fire Daemon-spawn! Most of the weapons are very well designed. Image: THQ

Even if the goal might not completely justify the means, in the sense that some Warhammer 40K-authencity has been sacrificed, the game is nonetheless extremely fun to play. Maybe if the fighting was less individual, if your allies actually followed you around instead of staying put, or, you know, DYING so friggin’ easily, then the expected accomplishment would have simply been more realistic. Or at lest somewhere a little closer, we wouldn’t want  to lose the genre’s over-the-top charm, now would we? I would’t bother to review this game from a regular gamer’s point of view, so all that I’ll say is that if you’re both a 40K-fan and likes action games, this is something worth checking out. If you haven’t already, that is. We don’t have THAT much to choose from…

Comments in both English and Norwegian are appreciated!

                             


Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 3

In the middle of christmas shopping and reading for this semester’s last test, the Land Raider interior still gets it’s share of attention.

The interior is starting to look more realistic and habitable.

The Painting: Land Raider Crusader posts

Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 1
Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 2
Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 4
Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 5

Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 6
Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 7

Finally, the main wall colour is complete on all interior pieces (except the plates framing the engine in the back, I just recently discovered). And so only detail painting remains, I’m reeeeeally looking forward to a certain side-door piece that has at least 12 different screens and a host of buttons. I’ll probably be asking for some input on that when the time comes, but for the time being; why not take a quick look at my current progress?

You’ll see that I have not yet cleaned up the first piece, simply to show you how bad it looks before a good clean-up with Chaos Black and Black Ink. Otherwise, that stage of painting is finished, also on the inner side of the assault ramp (see main picture). The second piece has been through some highlights and a thorough wash of the metallics. The parts that were simply Boltgun Metal now looks much more realistic, and just a tad corroded. A highlight of Chainmail will finish the job. The altar shelf, with the candle-stands, was base-layered with Tin Bitz (see previous post) and highlighted with Brazen Brass and finally Shining Gold. Only then was the wash applied.

“But what KIND of wash are you applying, that makes the metal look so unbelievably awesome?”, I can hear you crying out (right?). Well, it’s supposed to be this big secret, but perhaps I’ll consider sharing it when my site reaches 1000 views? Or simply 10 “likes” on this post will do, I am susceptible to flattery in most known forms.

The seats were highlighted with a 2:1 mix of Dark Flesh and Bestial Brown (more highlights to come). Some blending was attempted to seamlessly merge the highlight with the basecoat, but I wasn’t all that successfull. Some more practise needed with that technique, I suppose. The lamp was highlighted by adding increasing amounts of Skull White to the mix with Sunburst Yellow. Some of this was carefully drybrushed onto the wall to increase the illusion of the lamp being lit. Same thing goes for the single burning candle. The candles themselves were highlighted with a 1:1 mix of Red Gore and Blood Red, and then simply Blood Red.

Basic tips n’ tricks

When highlighting, aim for the most protruding areas, and avoid parts that are obscured or would be in shadow from a vertical light source. Extreme highlighting means adding a very light colour (often light gray or white) to hard edges or sharply protruding objects, simply to define the edge. A basic example would be adding an extreme highlight of Mithril Silver to a metallic object where the brightest highlight is otherwise Chainmail. The brighter the final highlight – the more contrast on the object.

Next time

The next painting session will be about cleaning up the first piece, finishing the second and probably starting on the engine piece. But before that I might just toss in the first in a series of Warhammer 40, 000 game reviews, so stay tuned!

Comments in both English and Norwegian are appreciated!


Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 2

After a far too long period of inactivity, I’m back with a fresh painting post. The Land Raider interior is a few steps closer to completion.

A little more detail than last time, eh? And a different paint station.

The Painting: Land Raider Crusader posts

Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 1
Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 3
Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 4
Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 5
Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 6
Painting: Land Raider Crusader – Part 7

First of all, I’ll be completely straightforward about the reason for the long delay since last post. I had an exam last week, so that, and the party that followed (at my house), sort of distracted me from painting. And so the 2-3 days I said it would take turned into, well, 9-10. But now I’m back, fit for fight and just recently finished with the latest stage of painting, take a look:

The first two pictures show you the very first layer of paint, that I actually intended to show you last time. Sort of looks like a camo pattern, huh? I’ll talk more about it further down. In the last two pictures you can see that I’ve completed the basic layer on pretty much everything that is not to remain black. The numerous metal studs are simply to be lightly “pricked” with Chainmail, but not just yet. The reason? Because accidentally wiping the paint off these studs will occur FREQUENTLY when handling the piece/model, no matter how careful you are. Leave them unpainted until you are ready to apply a layer of varnish.

Next, the lamp on top of the middle console has its basic layer of Sunburst Yellow, and will be built up by mixing in more and more Skull White. Same thing goes for the flame on the candle, but I probably won’t bother with more than one highlight here. The metal will get my “super secret” metal-wash, and then be highlighted with Chainmail. The seats are painted Dark Flesh, candles Red Gore and candle-stands Tin Bitz. These highlights will all be featured next time. By the way, any ideas of what I could paint inside the little shrine with the two candles? I guess it won’t be visible when the model is assembled, but I’m up for a challenge none the less, and a picture of the result is the only evidence I need.

Basic tips n’ tricks

About the very first layer, seen on the first pictures: You’ll see that the colour itself is uneven, but the layer is nonetheless quite smooth. This is all thanks to the paint being watered down, so even though it is a foundation paint, I will, obviously, still need another layer. Using one, thick layer will result in an uneven, rough surface. All the metallic parts have been given a layer of Boltgun Metal,  but not using a drybrush as I would on a Necron model. Some painters might be content with simply adding a highlight to this, but shading the metal using a wash of different inks will give you a much more realistic result. More on this next time.

One other thing: I’m out of town, and didn’t bring my finished miniatures, so don’t expect any additions to the model gallery until next week. My apologies people.

Comments in both English and Norwegian are appreciated!